Visvim – “Sashiko” Shirt & Sweatshirt

While most fashion labels do their best to look forward for inspiration, Japan’s Visvim tends to look backwards. Rather than solely seeking out the cutting edge, they continually revisit the most successful details of yesteryear. Drawing inspiration from traditional “Sashiko” (or “little stabs”) embroidery, Visvim just released two garments which feature the detail stitching.

The first piece is a straightforward, solid poplin button up. While Japanese “Sashiko” has developed an archetype of white linen thread on indigo cloth, a vibrant red thread was also used (though somewhat sparingly). This shirt conscripts the latter in a military-esque pattern on the bottom sides. Because the hand-stitching weighs heavily into the price of the piece, the best part of this shirt is how accessible the design is to anyone who has 30 minutes and some thread. Do it at home.

Employing a more subtle color contrast, the “Bedlam” sweatshirt features similar embroidery. Peeking out from the beige, a white thread zig-zags around the cuffs and the bottom of the garment . Though “Sashiko” was often used to repair abrasions in fabric, the embellishment in this sweatshirt is solely decorative. In addition to the contrast stitching, this sweatshirt features a leather pull tab on a golden RiRi zipper and natural cork beads on the drawstring. As always, a great attention to detail. Take a look at some close-ups in the gallery:

Issac Reina – One Leaf Wallet

Since launching his brand in 2006, Issac Reina has produced a wonderful portfolio of small leather goods. His design concept places a huge emphasis on both practicality and “unsophisticated” elegance. This wallet from last season is a great example of his approach.

The “One Leaf” wallet is crafted from a single piece of navy blue, italian vegetable-tanned leather. Reina nonetheless creates compartments for credit cards by folding the leather over onto itself and stitching everything into place. It’s a minimal, yet innovative design that is certainly easy on the eyes. As for actual usage, it would be interesting to hear some user reviews.

S.N.S. Herring – Roentgen Sweater

A great piece from S.N.S Herring’s Spring 2012 line. It’s a straightforward textured knit with a band of contrast stitching which runs across the chest. Nice and simple.

Korean Jiseung Weaving

Image courtesy of Aimee Lee

Image courtesy of Aimee Lee

Perhaps one of the most esoteric art forms in the world, Jiseung (formerly known as Noyeokgae) denotes a process by which one creates functional three-dimensional objects through spinning and weaving strips of paper. It is an incredibly technical process which requires both a patient and well-practiced touch.

The paper of choice is hanji – or Korean paper made from the inner bark of Mulberry trees.   Having an unsurpassed tensile strength, hanji is perfect for Jiseung paper weavers who rely on such sturdiness to maintain the form and function of their work.

Image courtesy of Aimee Lee

Image courtesy of Aimee Lee

The paper is cut into long, thin strips and is then rolled by hand by the Jiseung master. One must pay close attention during this stage because irregular cords will affect the weaving process to come. After creating individual rolls, some masters take the extra step of spinning two of their strips together to create an even stronger thread. From there, the weaving begins.

Image courtesy of Aimee Lee

Image courtesy of Aimee Lee

Having completed the design, the entire piece is coated with a sticky rice glue to waterproof the vessel. If the paper is not dyed a desired color before the spinning process,  the vessel is often coated with several layers of naturally derived sap lacquer. Once everything dries up, the end result is a completely handmade, functional, & beautiful piece of Korean craftsmanship.

If you’re interested in learning more about the process, or anything related to Korean paper-making, you can find out more from Aimee Lee’s website. You can also see more images of the process below.

Rileau – Knotted & Tapered Belt

During the second World War, pretty much all of the metal working was diverted to outfit the military. Civilians had to make do or be resourceful. Roger Rileau thus crafted two belts – neither of which relied on rivets, buckles, or even stitches. In addition to being made of one piece of leather, each belt is cut by hand without a pattern.

Knotted Belt

The “Knotted Belt” is the first of the buckle-less belts. It uses a rather intricate knot system which nonetheless is reputedly easy to learn. As an insurance policy, the belt comes with a woodblock print which demonstrates the step-by-step. (Points for some serious era-specific processes going on here).

Tapered Belt

The second and more elegant version is the “Tapered Belt.” Rather than using one vertical slot, this belt uses one vertical and one horizontal slot through which to loop the belt. Both are designed to be worn by both men and women, but I think these belts over the years have accrued a somewhat feminine slant. But no matter who has it on, the important thing is to appreciate a great moment of ingenuity in American craftsmanship.

One Percent Products – Modern Bulbs

Just as a preface, random is fun. In that spirit, coming across these bulbs from 1% Products was a delightful surprise. The first, “Swing” relies on coils encircling the bulb – giving the illusion of lateral movement. The “Gradation” bulb is made with glass of varying thickness to display a lighted spectrum. The pattern on the surface of “Basket” is self-evident. Finally, drawing inspiration from one’s interaction with the object itself, the patter of “Twist” recalls the act of screwing the bulb into it’s fixture.

Swing Bulb

Although they are designed to add character to your interior, it would be interesting to seem then actually in a space. One would have to have a very specific aesthetic to pull them off in my opinion, but as objects I think they are beautiful in and of themselves. Thoughts?

Truman Handcrafted – Interchangeable Key Fobs

A key fob can be an extremely personal thing. Catering to a discerning market, Truman Handcrafted recently released a set of key rings which offer interchangeable clasps depending on user preference. You can either go with a spring gate ring clasp, a swivel head head spring clasp, or you can do it the right way and get both to suit whatever mood you find yourself in. (And for the smokers and arsonists out there, you can even purchase a stainless-steel mini lighter to go with it.) The key fob features nickel plated hardware and natural vegetable-tanned leather from PA. Straight and simple. Click on the images below for a closer look.

Billykirk No. 117 Mechanics Belt

Patina details – one year of wear

The brothers at Billykirk began making leather goods from a simple realization that “we can make this.” Having found inspiration from vintage leather watch straps, they have crafted a versatile line including bags, accessories, and small goods. What stands out in particular however is their No. 117 Mechanic’s Belt.

Clasp Detail in Brown (via Svpply)

Clasp Detail in Brown (via Svpply)

It is designed so that the buckle in the front is concealed, which functions both as an aesthetic element and a pragmatic solution for mechanics who don’t want their buckles to scratch the cars they work on. (It also works great for guitarists who want to avoid scratching the backs of their instruments.)

Belt Profile in Black Colorway

Yet although the design is wonderful, the most enjoyable aspect about this belt – and every other Billykirk piece for that matter – is the development of a spectacular patina. Though it comes in 5 colorways, the tan breaks in particularly well. The image below was taken after a year of wear, and it’s only going to develop more character. Check it out!

Buckle & Stitch Detail - one year of wear

Buckle & Stitch Detail – one year of wear

 

Buttero “Tannino” Low-cut Sneakers

Profile - Tan Colorway

Profile – Tan Colorway

These shoes from Italy’s Buttero are amongst the most luxurious sneakers in the world. Hand crafted from start to finish, each pair is made in the heart of Tuscany by a small team of heritage-trained shoemakers. The “Tannino” low-cuts in particular are made from locally sourced, Italian vegetable-tanned leather which develops a rich patina over time. That said, the character of the leather already has a great deal of depth stemming from the tanning process. To wrap everything together, they feature nickel eyelets, an all rubber sole, and custom leather laces. As Buttero puts it, they are “a fusion of pure rawness and elegance” – a feat few brands of any sort can master. Take a look at the gallery for some hi-resolution images of two colorways, as well as some images of the process.

The Hill-Side woven accessories

Ocean Print

The Hill-Side has long since established an impressive reputation for their woven accessories. Reminiscent Japanese tenugui (手拭い), their textiles come in an array of colors & patterns which are either dyed, woven, or printed. Personally, the strongest pieces from the Hill-Side collection are their blue & white pocket squares. Rather than subscribing to the growing cult of unabridged coloration, they chose two beautiful hues and let the patterning speak for itself.

Snow Peak’s “Kanpai 350″ Bottle

Kanpai 350 with interchangeable lids

This bottle reigns in terms of versatility. The team at Snow Peak developed the Kanpai 350 to fill a void in the market for a water bottle that is at home both at work and the wilderness. It is designed with versatility in mind, offering three interchangeable lids to keep your beverages cold, hot, or immediately accessible. The bottle itself also accommodates a 12 oz. can to “keep your beer or soft drink ice cold on a hike.” (Why someone would want a Shiner or soda on a hike is beyond me, but it’s still a nice option to leave open). Complete with a super sleek design and a sturdy vacuum seal, it certainly beats the mason jar I’ve been using. It comes in white, scarlet, and also in a grey titanium version.

Cornelian Taurus Laptop Folder

Black Colorway – Carrying

I’ll admit, the vast majority of pieces from Cornelian Taurus lie on the outskirts of my aesthetic. That said, this laptop folder hits home. With roots in traditional Japanese craft, the design updates age-old methods of carrying to safeguard your computer. The horse hide used for this piece is not only waterproof, but is certain to develop a beautiful patina with use (especially on the natural contrast strap). It is lightly padded for added protection with a cotton lining to boot. And as always, it is entirely made by hand.

Folk Button-ups

Extended collar stay

One of the great aspects of England’s Folk label is that they pay great attention to details. Their shirts in particular feature a wide variety of nuances, from extended collar stays to contrast cuffs. Not only is it tasteful, but many of them are downright fun. (How often can you say that in men’s fashion?) Check out the gallery for a collection of their most recent details.

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