How To Dress Couture (Like A Little Boy)

T-Rex Knit

For a light-hearted downslope into the weekend, you might get a kick out of this small selection from the Jil Sander Fall/Winter ’12. For his last collection as creative designer for the label, Raf Simons set out to investigate varying manifestations of the masculine spirit. Of course, nostalgia is one aspect of any man’s overall psyche – so what could be better than helping men everywhere revert back to their unadulterated selves and dress like little boys?

T-Rex Detail

 Of the varying pieces, the T-Rex knit is a personal favorite. It is made from a 50% wool and 50% camello blend for added warmth. In addition to being cozy, the sweater is regular rather than slim fit to truly recall your childhood. (For real, what kid wears a tailored-fit anything?)

Jil Sander Lunchbag

But, if you are really going all-out, you might enjoy the $275 Jil Sander cardboard lunch bag. No joke. It’s luxuried-up with brass ventilation rings and a protective cloth bag. (Yes. A cloth sack for a designer lunch bag.) Priceless.

For more pieces & detail shots, scroll through the gallery below!

Beautiful Irregularity – Doug Johnston’s Woven Cotton Vessels

Cap’n Basket

In an effort to better understand the relationship between line and three-dimensional objects, Doug Johnston began investigating the ancient process behind coiled basketry. Several years later, this investigation culminated in an extensive and growing collection of beautiful hand-formed rope vessels.

Cap’n Basket Handle

In order to keep things fresh, Johnston crafts each piece one at a time. He uses polyester thread, 100% raw cotton cords, and a vintage industrial sewing machine to create each piece – all without forms or molds to determine the shapes. Rather, he relies on minor imperfections and impulses to decide the shape of his pieces as he sews.

Simple Basket

Pencil Bucket Loop Detail

 You can see some high-resolution images of his work courtesy of Indigo & Cotton in the gallery below, but if you’d like to see more, there are many more vessels pictured on his website – as well as other projects to peruse through.

Diemme – “Firenze” Boot

The Montebelluna district in northeastern Italy is world-renown for its many types of footwear. That area alone manufactures over 50% of the world’s technical mountaineering boots as well as 75% of all the ski boots around the globe. Fittingly, the region is also home to Diemme, which is one of the preeminent artisan-shoe companies in the world.

Cappucino – contrasting yellow laces

Located in Onè di Fonte, this family-run footwear company has been making shoes by hand since 1992. Staying true to Montebelluna’s legacy, Diemme is known for its mountaineering, trekking, military, safety, and even hunting footwear. Yet having been long-since lauded for their quality and style, the label has also enjoyed a strong presence in the fashion industry – often collaborating with various designers for limited spin-offs of their classics.

Ontario – leather & lace detail

Perhaps their most iconic shoe is their “Firenze” boot, which has seen various iterations and colorways throughout several seasons. Like all of their footwear, each component is sourced in Italy (despite the occasional turn to tanneries such as Horween or Charles F. Stead & Co for some high-quality leather). The boot features a gusseted tongue which is padded with vegetable latex for extreme waterproofing and comfort. Should rain be a concern, each Firenze boot is made with a Vibram Moreflex sole that is notable for it’s slip-resistance. These soles are also extremely light, pliable, and ready for whatever adventures you can conjure up.

Root Beer – Horween “Mastiff” leather & Moreflex “Christy” Vibram sole

Be sure to check out some of the current and past versions of the Firenze boot in the gallery below. It’s also well-worth a gander at Diemme’s website for more information concerning their processes and products.

18 Waits – Fall/Winter ’12 Lookbook

Weekender Jacket, Woodsman Shirt, Thomson Trouser

The latest campaign from Canadian fashion label 18 Waits is one of their strongest collections yet – if not the absolute best. Their lookbook is teaming with new takes on reliable staples and some new surprises for the Fall/Winter seasons.

Eastern Cardigan (charcoal)

Eastern Cardigan – Douglas Fir Button

Of the line, there are a few favorites worth pointing out. Their shawl-collared, contrast-woven “Eastern” cardigan is hand-knit in Prince Edward Island before it is finished with custom Douglas-fir wooden buttons. It is available in two colorways (charcoal and flecked crème), which each have side pockets and complementary elbow patches.

Weekender Jacket (waxed navy)

Weekender Jacket (olive) – Gingham Interior Lining

Another standout is their “Weekender” shirt-jacket made from a sturdy but pliable waxed-cotton. Keeping true to their detail-oriented reputation, the inner layer is lined with a beautiful gingham fabric that would offer a great accent if left unbuttoned.

 Be sure to scroll through a healthy selection from their lookbook below – keeping a keen eye out for details. The collection is strewn with custom-cut collars, hidden buttons, and many other unique touches. You can also see more of their collection in the next couple weeks by visiting their website. In the meantime, be sure to check out their lookbook video featuring Montreal’s “Plants & Animals”.

Blake Avenue Sustainable Furniture: A Serious Blow to Throw-Away Culture

Mt. Whiney Chair

For those who are interested in green building, it is definitely worth checking out Blake Avenue furniture out of Los Angeles, CA. Of their diverse catalogue, all of their pieces rely on reclaimed and recycled materials – most of which are recovered from local architecture that dates back 150 years. Through that process, they have even been known to repurpose lumber from trees that were sprouting 15 centuries ago.

Because they place such an impressive emphasis on recycling, it comes as no surprise that their visual aesthetic is left minimal. This highlights the natural beauty of their materials rather than modish lines. As they put it, “every piece has its own unique characteristics; traces of rough hewn saw blade marks made by steam powered machines built before our grandfathers were born, oxidized holes left behind by square cut nails, a beautifully nuanced patina brought about by years coexisting with natural elements, these timbers carry with them a history of use and production that will never be repeated.”

Shenandoah Platform Bed Detail

Longevity is a great inspiration for Blake Avenue, but it is more than just a quality of their materials. They strive to make furniture that is both visually appealing and structurally sound for generations. Production is kept low in the workshop to focus on proper craftsmanship. In short, they are in the business of making heirlooms from heirlooms.

Be sure to visit their website to learn more about their process & products. In the meantime, you can find some images of their work below.

Updated Flannel Shirts from Thom Browne

University Stripe in Navy/Green Plaid

Despite being one of many elements in an incredibly diverse label, flannel is not the first thing to come to mind when thinking of fashion designer Thom Browne. Yet in a recent collection, Browne capitalized on the urban-lumberjack look (if of course there is such a thing) by releasing a series of updated flannels.

Grosgrain & Red/Navy Plaid Detail

While every shirt in the collection features mother of pearl buttons, they are also adorned with either a signature RWB grosgrain on the interior placket or his four bar university strip on the bicep. Of the four pictured, the favorite has to be the red flannel with the subtle striped placket contrast. All of the shirts are cut from heavy weight 100% cotton cloth and are assembled with scoop sides for an updated slim-fit. Apt to revamp an American icon, these shirts are also designed and crafted in the USA.

 You can find different details and colorways in the gallery below.

Notice To All Readers

Due to recent server/host issues, all subscriptions to Procured Design have been cancelled for some ungodly reason. If you are still interested in receiving notifications about new posts, please re-enter your email in the Subscribe box on the right hand side of the page with assurances that this will not happen again. (You can also keep up with what’s happening via the Procured Design Facebook page). Terribly sorry for the inconvenience!

Outlier – Rockaway Pivot S/S Shirt

                                                 Rockaway Short Sleeve Pivot Shirt

The purveyors of sport and style at Outlier just released a beautiful short sleeve button-up for the last dog days of summer. The shirt is cut and sewn in New York City from a custom  85% cotton / 15% linen blend that features a characteristically open weave to help air circulation.

                                                        Linen-Cotton Blend Detail

                                       Back “Pivot” Construction & Contrast Stripes

In addition to keeping you cool in the heat, their patent pending “Pivot” shirt construction allows you to reach forward without activating any tension in the fabric. A great aspect about the Rockaway shirt in particular is that you can actually see this pattern in action by tracing the contrasting horizontal and vertical stripes throughout the garment. It’s hard to find a better marriage of aesthetic elements and innovative design.

You can find more about Outlier’s work at their website, including information on their unique custom-blended fabrics, limited collections, and collaborations. Enjoy the weekend!

Reminiscing & Retrospect – EOTO’s Distinctive Take on Dubstep

It was almost two years ago that I was first introduced to dubstep at a concert in Austin, TX. Having not yet been a fan of electronic music, a buddy of mine took me to an EOTO show without explaining what to expect. It turns out that this first exposure to dubstep was not only mind-blowing in and of itself, but was also a unique experience within a rapidly growing musical genre.

EOTO Live with Kinetic Visuals (B. Hockensmith photography)

 The duo of EOTO, Jason Hann (drummer/vocalist) and Michael Travis (multi-instrumentalist), share a veritable passion for pushing musical boundaries. While they fall neatly under the umbrella of dubstep, their continued emphasis on exploring different musical traditions within that framework gives them a trademark sound. It’s not everyday that two musicians can incorporate elements of American blues and reggae into their electronica, all while overlaying vocals that flow seamlessly through recognizable raps of Grandmaster Flash, pop ballads of Beyoncé, and scat.

Travis on Guitar (B. Hockensmith photography)

Yet perhaps the most impressive aspect of EOTO stems from their exclusive use of real instruments during performances. While Travis handles different strings and keys, Hann supplies vocals and a beat. Despite their highly synthesized sound, all of the various elements in an EOTO show stem from real-time mixing, remixing, and sampling of these live signals from their various instruments. This approach allows two people to play what would otherwise require a handful of competent musicians.

Travis on Lute & Hann on Drums (B. Hockensmith photography)

Simply put, their performances are unrivaled. While they have several studio albums, EOTO is better known for live shows which are 100% improvisational. (As they put it, their concerts lack both a script and a safety net.) Hann and Travis clock in at over 150 live shows a year – most of which are recorded and released as mp3 files. In addition to their music however, EOTO is also known for their incredible visual presence. They use an extensive array of lights, lasers, and custom 3D mapped projections to complement their improv. To kick off their recent “Bass Invaders” tour, EOTO debuted a custom-built lotus stage design to heighten the overall experience.

 If you are interested, you can find more information about their upcoming tour dates at their website. In the meantime, it’s worth watching some high quality footage of a live performance in NC below. Turn it up and enjoy some whomp-whomps.

Roopenian Design – Texturized Wooden Keyboard

Keyboard Detail

Keyboard Detail

Keyboard 3/4 View

Keyboard 3/4 View

It’s not often that images of nature are conjured up when one ponders about our changing relationship with technology. Yet for designer Michael Roopenian, the tactility of organic materials offered a straightforward way to improve an otherwise sterile interface. Having experimented with different textures, he developed a keyboard cut from a single piece of wood to heighten the overall uniformity and logical arrangement of the design. To achieve the dramatic texture, he sandblasted the wood along the natural grain pattern before cutting it into the individual keys. What’s left is a keyboard with a consistent, user-friendly topography that is beautiful to boot.

Be sure to view some of the images below, including some different stages in research and development.

Welcoming the Rain – Archer Adams Umbrellas

Not that I’m a sing-in-the-rain type, but it’s somewhat difficult to get excited about umbrellas. Most of the time they are unremarkable, utilitarian objects that live in the entry closet. However the quasi-gothic, heritage-inspired umbrella collection from Archer Adams is a totally different story.

Extended with Lion Head

Extended with Lion Head

Printed Nylon Canopy

Printed Nylon Canopy

Every piece in the series features a natural black lacquered birch stalk, a robust locking mechanism, and a 100% nylon tonal printed canopy. The best part however is the wide spectrum of silver-plated heads available.  In addition to the ones pictured, you can also find a serpent, skull, Swarovski crystal, eagle, leopard, Labrador, lizard skin, toucan, or frog to adorn the handle.

Horse Head

Horse Head

Take a gander at some detail shots in the gallery below. Also be sure to check out the other articles available at Archer Adams. You’ll find lots of exclusives and one-of-a-kind pieces in their online collection.

CMYK – White Collection

Happy weekend!

Procured Design now on Facebook & Pinterest

In the name of getting and staying connected, Procured just launched its own Facebook page. Be sure to check it out, give it a good healthy ‘like’, and get your friends to do the same.

If you are after some delectable eye-candy without any editorial strings attached, you can also visit the Procured Pinterest account for a collection of both featured and found images – not all of which make it into posts. Hope to see you there!

Blumenstein Audio – Handmade Wooden Speaker Systems

“Travel through music brings with it whatever you desire—the thrill of discovery, a childlike curiosity, humility at the many generations that have paved our way.”  -Clark Blumenstein

Since 2006, Clark & Molly of Blumenstein Audio have shared their unique approach to audiophile equipment with discerning clientele throughout all seven continents (yes that includes Antarctica). The vision is simple: to produce an unadulterated sound experience through a no-frills approach to HiFi and a minimalist visual aesthetic. Relying on years of combined experience in building stereo systems and custom woodworking, the team crafts each speaker by hand in their Seattle, WA woodshop. The result is a line of streamlined, straightforward speaker systems that are pleasing to the eyes, the ears, and are remarkably inexpensive.

Orca (Caramelized Bamboo)

Orca (Caramelized Bamboo)

 What is particularly impressive about these speakers is the lack of extraneous components which have long since been standardized in the industry. Borrowing some jargon from their website, the “Orcas have no damping, no tweeter, no woofer, no midrange (single driver), no capacitors, resistors or inductors (no crossover), no equalization, (no BSC, no Zobel network, etc.), no biscuits, no miters, no paint, no primer, no lacquer, no solder-less clips, no grill cloth, no nails, no threaded inserts, no spikes, no unnecessary curves, no nameplate, no structural plastic, no terminal cups, no removable panels, and no internal panels.” In fewer words, what’s left is an undiluted audio signal with free reign to meld into the natural resonances of an all-wood cabinet. Sound can’t get more honest than that.

Natural Bamboo

Natural Bamboo

To maintain quality, the team has a hand in every process that culminates in a finished speaker. Each one is built from solid wood bamboo ply, which has a remarkably sonorous personality. Blumenstein offers both natural and caramelized cabinets, the former producing a more resolute sound due to the baking process. Once assembled, the speakers are hand-sanded and treated with a non-toxic 200 year old blend of linseed oil and natural resin varnish for a smooth, lustrous finish. Now that they are beautiful, each speaker is tuned by ear and microphone before it’s  ready to be fully enjoyed at home.

Custom In Home Installation

Custom In Home Installation

Drawing on an undeniable passion for music, Clark and Molly are really great about working with each individual client to customize the right set up that accounts for personal taste, budget, and listening space. If you are interested in learning more, be sure to check out their website.

Maison Kitsuné – Tricolor Ribbon Sweatshirt

Tricolor Ribbon Detail

Tricolor Ribbon Detail

There’s nothing like a nice sweatshirt to get you in the mood for fall. This one from Maison Kitsuné’s FW12 collection is cut from 100% Japanese cotton which is sure to soften over time. But the most noticeable feature is the tricolor drawstring for a quiet tinge of color that would match the red/white/blue selvedge on your cuffed jeans (if you are into that sort of thing). Simple, subtle, and slim fit.

Maison Kitsune - Tricolor Ribbon Sweatshirt

In Focus: Parabellum

In reaction to growing trends of mass-production and outsourcing, Jason Jones and Mike Feldman launched Parabellum with a simple desire to make some of the best hand-made leather goods in the world. While they have select stockists around the globe, their craft is an intimate one based almost entirely in Los Angeles. The team works together on every single piece, ensuring that each aspect of their work is carefully considered to fulfill the most demanding requirements for style and durability

Medicine Man Duffle – Natural

Of their line, the Medicine Man Duffle is one of the best examples of what Parabellum is about. The bag is made from 100% Buffalo leather, which is treasured for it’s uniquely toothy texture and tensile strength. However, because the label adopted American Bison as its totem, Jason & Mike only harvest hides from animals that live organically on free range ranches in the US. So as not to squander the character of the buffalo leather during tanning, they treat each hide in their own family run microtannery where they keep a close and well-trained eye on the entire process. The leather is then skived by hand before being cut and sewn. While their bags are lined with a Kevlar-reinforced suede interior, the Medicine Man Duffle in particular features an adjustable/removable leather strap. Once completed, each piece is hand-finished for posterity and individually numbered for good measure.

Custom-cast Copper Buckle In the Making

Parabellum offers two hardware options for most of their goods. Their copper rivets and buckles are designed and crafted by American artisans using single-use molds. The natural properties of copper allow it to develop a unique patina over time which is sure to complement the aging process of the buffalo leather. But if custom-cast solid copper isn’t up to snuff, the bag is also available with Military Grade Ceramic hardware. Though not widely realized, ceramics are amongst the hardest man-made materials in the world (think anti-ballistic plating for vehicles and thermal-resistant tiles on NASA’s space shuttles). In other words, you needn’t worry about dishing out the abuse.

Natural Bison Grain & White Ceramic Buckle Detail 

In addition to creating wonderful pieces, the label is particularly inspiring in terms of it’s outlook. Borrowing from its mission statement, “[t]here was a time, not so long ago, when a man could buy a belt of such high quality that it lasted a lifetime and could be passed down to his children. With the inception of the Parabellum Brand, we believe that time has returned.” That said, when considering the labels emphasis on environmental responsibility and collaborations with local artisans, I dare say that their time has returned with a vengeance.

Be sure to scroll through the gallery below for detailed images of the Medicine Man Duffle as well as some shots of their process. You can find more about the brand and their work on their website, including information about their upcoming women’s handbag collection.

Author Neil Gaiman on Making Good Art

Although it’s slightly out of character for Procured to feature discourse rather than handwork, I felt it necessary to share this lengthy albeit rewarding clip of Neil Gaiman’s address to the 2012 graduates of University of the Arts in Philadelphia. Hopefully it is a good dose of perspective to carry you into the weekend! Many thanks to a former professor and dear friend for sending this over. It epitomizes what this blog is all about.

For a text version of Gaiman’s address, click here.

 

Neil Gaiman Addresses the University of the Arts Class of 2012 from The University of the Arts (Phl) on Vimeo.

Junya Watanabe – Beige Moleskin Jacket

(image courtesy of Tres Bien Shop)

Not being one to indulge in high fashion, it was somewhat surprising to be so drawn to this jacket by Junya Watanabe, whose garments tend to require a certain level of commitment on behalf of both wearer and viewer. This piece on the other hand is an uncharacteristically restrained example of the designer at his best. The corduroy collar offers just enough of a contrast to the beige moleskin comprising the bulk of the jacket. The juxtaposition between the hidden and exposed button on the front is a great, yet subtle touch – especially in aligning with the buttons on each cuff to create a waist-high horizontal line.

(image courtesy of Tres Bien Shop)

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...