The Distinct Handwoven Textiles of Jed & Marne

01-jed-and-marne-shorts-for-men-and-boys-handwoven-in-guatemala

Mayan style patterning has been everywhere in the past year, but it’s especially prominent in fashion. That’s all well and good, but there is a difference between a trendy screen printed T-shirt and the real deal. If you’re interested in the latter, it would definitely be worth checking out Jed & Marne. This small label handcrafts a beautiful collection of shorts and dresses using custom woven textiles straight from the master weavers in the Guatemalan highlands.

Canary Boy Shorts

Canary Boy Shorts

Parasol Dress

Parasol Dress

In reaction to the omnipresence of machine-made goods, Jed & Marne prides itself on employing and supporting artisans who work by hand. In addition to offering livable wages and humane working conditions, the label actively supports a fading tradition that has been threatened by automated manufacturing.

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Interview with Bertrand Montillet – Master Maroquinier

There are certain very rare moments when I see something so beautiful that I stop and just stare in amazement. Almost out loud, I’ll wonder, “who made this” or “how did they do that” before diving in to slake my curiosity. It was in this fashion on a non-descript Paris street that I discovered the leatherwork by Bertrand Montillet.

Montillet-Wallet-Interior

It was already late afternoon when we walked into Altan Bottier – a luxury leather shoe atelier in the 8th arrondissement. Amongst the crowded rows of derbys and oxfords, I was drawn to a small collection of envelope-shaped leather cardholders and wallets in a floor level curio cabinet. Though only dimly lit inside the case, it was clear how much care went into crafting each piece; the details were immaculate. The wallets were obviously made by hand, yet each one featured uniform saddle stitches and perfectly sealed edges. Every single piece was a tiny work of art.

In embarrassingly broken (but enthusiastic) French, I asked the storeowner for more information about the leather cases. After an entertaining exchange of Franglais, he rummaged through some cards on his desk and handed me one that read “Bertrand Montillet.” I barely had time to put two and two together before he reached into another drawer and revealed his personal glasses case. I had never seen anything like it before – at least not in leather. It was comprised of two cylindrical pieces, which were threaded on the inside (like a screw) with manipulated leather. That was the clincher: I had to know more about M. Montillet.

glasses

 

So four months and a commission later, I was lucky enough to interview M. Montillet about his work, his passion, and his underlying creative process.  For posterity, the interview below is in both English and French but be sure to scroll all the way through to see a generous collection of his work. Thanks to Jacqueline Sime for the translations.

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A Line Off My Bucket List

There is a special space in our woodshop where I have been archiving the drop-offs and remnants from various jobs over the last couple months. It’s comprised mostly of thin strips and short stubs that are useful for little more than kindling. But in a moment of inspiration, I raided my plunder and decided to put some of these scraps to good use. Now with one fewer item on my bucket list, I have successfully crafted my first homemade skateboard.

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Photo by Charles Rooney

The first ride in Houston’s EZ-7 skate ditch (photo by Charles Rooney)

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Introducing: Handmade on Peconic Bay

 Depending on the method, printmaking isn’t always the most eco-friendly process. With that in mind, Matthew Shapoff founded Handmade on Peconic Bay (HMPB), which is a one-man studio that specializes in Cyanotype and Vandyke printing. Relying on years of expertise, his work ranges from monoprints on paper to wearable accessories – each of which is crafted by hand in his Long Island studio.

Moon Phase Canvas Tote

Moon Phase Canvas Tote

In order to truly appreciate the work of HMPB, it’s important to understand the characteristics of both Cyanotype and Vandyke printing. Both processes were originally discovered in the 19th Century and thus require very little in terms of resources. All you need is a photosensitive solution, a receptive surface, natural sunlight, and a little bit of knowhow to create a print. Yet because there are so many variables (i.e. intensity of the sun or the strength of the solution), no two prints will be identical. In fact, it is in these natural variations of hue and value that make these processes so unique.

Queen Anne's Lace Detail

Queen Anne’s Lace Detail

Unique Silk Scarves

Unique Silk Scarves

What I like about HMPB is that these characteristics are obvious throughout the entire collection. By nature, the photosensitive printing methods are extremely versatile in that they can be applied to different materials like paper, silk and canvas to name a few. In terms of imagery, Shapoff finds inspiration in his natural surroundings – whether in the form of lunar charts or zoological studies of marine life. Because many of these motifs are coastal, there is also a strong sense of place about his work that makes it that much more distinct.

Crab Cyanotype on Cotton Paper

Crab Cyanotype on Cotton Paper

In addition to honing the skills already mastered, HMPB is also embarking on new territory over the coming months. Shapoff is investigating ways to stimulate the American artisan economy by sourcing domestically produced linen and cotton fabrics for his own work. There are also plans to introduce different styles and goods – including an experimental collection of custom printed messenger bags.

If you are interested in learning more about Handmade on Peconic Bay, be sure to visit Shapoff’s website where you can find up to date information about new projects and inventories. In the meantime, feel free to scroll through some select images of his work in the gallery below.

Cause & Effect for NeedSupplyCo – A Limited Series of Handmade Belts

The purveyors of all things good at Need Supply Co. recently released an exclusive collection of three handmade belts by Cause & Effect – a small label out of Tennessee that specializes in benchmade leather goods and custom metal work.

One Lined Buckle Detail

One Lined Buckle Detail

Like the rest of the goods from Cause and Effect, each piece in the series is crafted entirely by hand. The belts are cut from premium vegetable tanned leather and are then adorned with custom-cast brass or copper buckles. Yet what’s unique about the  Need Supply Co collection in particular is that each belt is hand-painted as well.

Two Lined Belt Profile

Two Lined Belt Profile

There are three different motifs that combine various color and stylistic elements. My personal favorite is the incarnadine belt, which features two etched lines around its circumference that reveal the natural leather underneath. Overtime, these stripes of exposed leather will darken and will thus support an ever-changing contrast with the red. As a final touch, the rustic hand-hammered brass buckle pulls everything together.

Be sure to check out additional images of the collaboration in the gallery below. As always, you can learn more about these pieces and other by visiting the respective websites for Cause & Effect or Need Supply Co.

Bolefloor – Undermining A ‘Straight Line’ Mentality

The small team of engineers and woodworkers at Amsterdam’s Bolefloor is changing the way people think about modern technology and interior design. Specializing in custom hardwood flooring, the company has developed a collection of software and machinery that virtually eliminate wood waste during their very special manufacturing process.

Interior-Panorama

Though it is a meticulous operation, the idea behind Bolefloor is surprisingly intuitive. Instead of crafting straight floorboards, Bolefloor strives to keep as much of the natural curved edges as possible. Not only does this minimize the use of natural resources, but the resulting floor features a beautifully organic layout that is custom-fit to any given space.

Outdoor-Floor Interior-Vertical

In a continuing effort to maximize square footage, the technicians are incredibly careful as to how they align and install these floors. Before trimming the edges, each board is scanned into a computer system. From there, the team is able to determine how to best orientate each floorboard against one another  – all without sacrificing the unique curved edges. Once the layout is determined, each board is numbered, laser cut, and installed one by one. It’s a pretty phenomenal marriage of environmental responsibility and aestheticism.

If you’re interested in learning more about the process or you’re a fan of good ol’ fashioned techno, be sure to check out the video above which offers an insightful step-by-step guide to how these floors are made. For further information, you can also visit the Bolefloor website.

Most Popular Post #2: A Studio Visit With Guitar-Maker Lucio Nuñez

Lucio Nuñez has made custom flamenco and classical guitars by hand for the vast majority of his life. Having begun in his 20’s, he quickly worked up the skill and expertise to make guitars full-time. His one-man luthiery practice has been in operation for over thirty years and has gained much acclaim amongst clients and apprentices all over the world. It was a distinct pleasure to catch up with Lucio in his studio in San Antonio, TX where we discussed his life, his work, and how to save the world:

________________________

How did you go about making your first guitar?

My brother is an architect, and he got this gig for making closets and doors on the side. He had all the machinery and tools, so I decided that I would make a guitar–horrible thing. I’m sure it’s somewhere out there. You could use it as a hammer, I guess. But that’s how I made my first guitar. I didn’t know anything. I just started, and that was that – figuring out my own way.

What attracted you to guitar-making?

The thing that really attracted me was the shape of the guitar; the curves. And the rosette, which is crazy because it has nothing to do with the sound. I just asked myself “How do they do this?” so I tried different things and ruined a lot of really nice wood until finally that brother of mine said, ‘You are stupid. People have been making guitars for centuries. You should go look, and maybe somebody out there can help you,’ but nobody took pity on me until later when I apprenticed with a luthier that used to work for the National Conservatory of Music. His requirements and schedule gave me some much-needed discipline.

Flamenco Negra

Flamenco Negra

So it was the curiosity in terms of how to make guitars that excited you?

That and the aesthetics. You know the instrument is beautiful, I think. I mean the instrument itself. Obviously Classical and Flamenco music is wonderful, but I wasn’t into that world at the time. I was into other things like jazz and heavy metal.

Did your interest in those other genres influence your guitar-making at all?

Little by little I discovered, for instance, that the jazz players know harmony and chords and extensions. Jazz becomes complex; however, the color range, the tone range, is really small. But the classical guitar, because it works like the whole orchestra, has more intricacies that I didn’t understand at the time. I was just interested in making a guitar, any kind of guitar. I thought that in three months I would know everything about this process. But still, with every instrument, something is missing, and that’s what keeps you going – making mistakes.  And you think that next time, you won’t make the same mistake, but you do.

So what do you have in mind when you set out to make a guitar?

One of my goals is to make an instrument that can come close to reproducing the sound I have in my head. It hasn’t happened yet, but hopefully it will happen sometime before I die. The person who started helping me told me in a mystical and poetic way that the sound is already there in the wood; you just have to go find it.

The problem with this kind of creative work is that you are always trying to satisfy a new need. If you solve that problem, that’s OK. But the subjective side of it is different. Say that the playability is OK, the intonation is OK, but now, are you going to like the actual tone? It’s very subjective. All in all, though, I think the players are the most important factor I consider in my work. I don’t make guitars for myself, partially because I couldn’t buy all the guitars I make, but mostly because I get satisfaction from pairing one of my instruments with a particular player.

Flamenco Negra - Custom Soundport

Flamenco Negra – Custom Soundport

Obviously it takes a lot of time, effort and expertise to build a hand-made instrument. On the flip side, factories in China can produce guitars that sell for $60. How do you view your work in relation to mass production? Is it a reaction or is it something altogether removed from that idea?

There’s a guitar teacher here in San Antonio, a friend of mine, and we were complaining together, wondering why we do what we do. He said, ‘You know what?  We do this because we are trying to save the world.’

There’s this idea that you should go ahead and buy what is affordable without any other thought or considerations for aspects like quality. My mother at some point put us on a very difficult budget because she was saving to get some pots and pans. So she saved money and went to the store in Mexico City to get really good cookware that is still in our family. But nowadays, you need a frying pan, you go to Wal-Mart and you get one for $5, but it will be in a landfill in 3 weeks. Mass production might be really good for some things, like cars. But traditionally, I think that the great luthiers were trying to make the best instruments they could, and still are, independent of the market around them.

Most of your guitars are custom made to suit each individual customer. Do these clients push your creativity into new realms that you wouldn’t have otherwise visited?

There are makers who design everything and produce a type of guitar. You go to their shops, and they say, ‘Here are my guitars and these are the prices. Take it or don’t, that’s OK.’ I prefer to hear a lot of feedback because that’s how I improve things.

When your work improves, in any field, it gets a bit worrisome to be honest. When someone comes with a different project, and asks if I can do something new, I certainly try. I have a lute that I’m working on right now as well as a 10-string guitar, and I like that. It keeps it interesting. I go to bed thinking of how I’m going to do everything, and I obsess over it, but again that keeps things exciting.

So did you experiment on your own when you were starting out?

I used to do that a lot. I couldn’t control myself. I don’t even buy magazines about guitars because if I see something new, I need to try it. You learn sometimes by doing things that go absolutely wrong. The bigger the mistake, the more you learn. That’s my personal opinion. Of course, you expend time, money, and effort, so sometimes it’s bad to make mistakes, but it’s all part of the experience.

What I like here in the United States is – I don’t want to sound offensive – but it seems that somehow the American tradition is to break with tradition. It leaves room to experiment and try new things. People are open to that here.

Flamenco in Progress

Flamenco in Progress

I know lutherie is not an easy business to be in. You must be very passionate about your work.

Absolutely. We need passion. We really do need passion. More than ever nowadays. They say that a writer who doesn’t write dies. We are not just what we do, we are much more than that: feelings, passions, thoughts, etc. I do this because if I didn’t, my life wouldn’t make any sense.

On a final note, am I to take your response to mean that you are fulfilled by what you do?

I am. But there is a lack within the process of guitar making. We all know how guitar makers are; they are obsessed with detail. We are practically hermits. But the point is, it’s a solitary thing. You are basically in your shop sanding and sanding and sanding. You create a lot of dust and noise, which undermines conversation. That’s the very sad part of it for me. You have no idea how much I’m enjoying this interview because luthiers don’t have a chance to talk very much.

But I think you should do what you feel you are called to do. That question, “What am I going to be?” is ridiculous. You are what you are. Whatever discipline you get involved in, there will be a big wall in front of you that has no answer. Sometimes miracles happen in the sense that we finally realize that facing that wall is actually part of embracing a discipline, any discipline.

______________________________

If you are interested in learning more about his work, check out his website and scroll through the gallery below for some images of his studio, some works in progress, and some close ups of a finished guitar.

Teranishi Handcrafted – Single Hole Bespoke Belt

It never occurred to me that a bespoke belt could have a single hole to mark the user’s specific size. In that sense, this piece from the Teranishi Handcrafted archives speaks to the fundamental values of the brand; it is an understated and carefully constructed leather good with a unique life to live.

Bespoke-one-hole-belt

Made from premium vegetable-tanned leather, the natural hue is certain to develop an exceptionally rich caramel patina based on the rigors of daily wear. But what is particularly intriguing about this belt is that it exudes a sense of tailor-made confidence and stability. Conversely, it may also allow the wearer a certain savoir-faire in punching his/her own additional holes. (Perhaps this user interaction might even lead to unique decorative embellishments. Who knows?) Either way, the belt is a telling symbol of the wearer’s personality.

 If you haven’t already, be sure to take a look at Teranishi Handcrafted’s line of handmade leather goods, which includes everything from other wearables to wallets.

The Hill-side – “Old Virginia” Collection

Having spent a good portion of my life growing up in rural Virginia, I am always proud when others recognize the great craftspeople in that tiny corner of the world. I was particularly pleased to see that American-made accessories label The Hill-side shares my appreciation through the debut of their “Old Virginia” collection, which relies exclusively on custom woven fabrics from the Virginia foothills.

S70-062 White Scarf Detail (image courtesy of Hickorees.com)

S70-062 Blue Scarf Detail (image courtesy of Hickorees.com)

Consisting of scarves and ties, this line is created from textiles manufactured on a single shuttle loom that dates back to the 1930s. In addition to producing selvedge detailing at both edges of the fabric, this particular loom is notable for creating a very special pattern known as a “modified herringbone”.

S70-065 Scarf Detail (image courtesy of Hickorees.com)

S70-065 Scarf Detail (image courtesy of Hickorees.com)

Hill-side and Tender Co. Collaboration Jeans (image courtesy of Hickorees.com)

Hill-side and Tender Co. Collaboration Jeans (image courtesy of Hickorees.com)

This distinctive weave functions like a traditional herringbone pattern, but incorporates various colors of yarn that are interspersed– almost sporadically – across the warp. The result is a decidedly unique fabric that juxtaposes different hues, tones, and textures throughout a given yard of fabric. This emphasis on character and individuality is a nice foil to the underwhelming homogeneity of mass production.

Old Virginia: The Hill-Side’s “Modified Herringbone” Fabric from The Hill-Side on Vimeo.

After scrolling through their lookbook, be sure to check out The Hill-side’s video that documents the weaving process. While I’m obviously partial to the visual aspects of the Old Virginia collection, the audio is the most profound aspect of the film. Between the dulcimer music, the ticking machinery, and the voiceovers, it offers an intimate (and nostalgic) glimpse into the life and values of these craftsmen.

The Handcrafted Furnishings of BDDW

Credenza Mid

There is a certain sense of pride and personality that emanates from a well-furnished interior. To me, this relationship between a room and its contents is a particularly intriguing idea – one that forms the basis of my appreciation for the small furniture company BDDW. Perhaps better described as an artisanal conglomerate, BDDW is a creative outlet that has become synonymous with innovative design, heirloom quality, and informed craftsmanship.

Hand Fitting Butterfly Key Joints

One of the more stimulating aspects of BDDW is their conscious choice of materials and production methods. Their furniture is predominantly made from select domestic hardwoods like black walnut, oxidized maple, and distressed oak. In an effort to craft visually and structurally timeless pieces, they rely on traditional joints throughout their collection. The butterfly joints above are particularly striking examples of the marriage between stability and design.

Captain’s Mirror – wooden frame, leather strip, and machined bronze hanging puck

 In addition to their solid wood furniture, they also work in a variety of other materials. BDDW also dabbles in custom-cast bronze, blown glass, hand-thrown ceramics, and woven rugs. In fact, BDDW has a stable of visiting artists that includes woodworkers Aaron Scaturro and Kieran Kinsella, lighting designer Lindsey Adelman, and ceramicist Natalie Page. This constant influx of creative minds continually broadens the scope of BDDW’s already extensive collection.

Tall Storage Chest & Wooden Side Tables

Be sure to check out the many images from their online portfolio in the gallery below. You can also find more information about BDDW by visiting their website.

 

Loyal Dean’s “Daringly Organic” Handmade Skateboards

Loyal Dean is a small company based in Los Angeles that crafts some of the most visually arresting and functionally superior skateboards on the market. Drawing on several decades of woodworking and riding experience, the team produces one of a kind all-wooden skate decks in a variety of shapes from downhill bombers to small cruisers.

Bottle Nose Detail (image courtesy of Hiddengarments.cn)

Every board is both designed and crafted exclusively in the US – but in a very special way. Around 40% of Loyal Dean’s lumber is reclaimed and thus carries a great deal of character along with it.

Longboard 3/4 View & Side Profile (image courtesy of awsm.com)

The variety in age, color, and grain plays a major role in how Loyal Dean designs and constructs their boards. Though there are limitations in terms of available shapes, each board is constructed with a unique combination of wood species, grain directions, and overall pattern. That means that each deck is truly one-of-a-kind.

Yet their unique lamination style is not purely aesthetic; the patterned top surface design is complemented by a second ply of a parallel wood grain underneath that allows for flexibility without sacrificing structural integrity.

Unique Lamination (image courtesy of manoftheworld.com)

Parallel Grain Underside (image courtesy of manoftheworld.com)

Keeping with the design-forward nature of these skateboards, the decks are most often adorned with opaque grip tape to showcase the custom lamination. Yet it might be interesting to see whether one could add a personal touch by custom-cutting black grip tape. Who knows? But at the end of the day, it’s just important to enjoy the ride!

Be sure to check out the Loyal Dean website for more information concerning their boards, process, and overall oeuvre. You can also stay up to date with new releases and events by following their Facebook page.

Not Your Daddy’s Boombox… (But It Could Be His Old Briefcase)

Given the choice between schlepping work documents or a portable speaker system, I think most would go for the latter. It’s better use of a briefcase anyway.

Gator Samsonite ST-6 Model

 It’s worth pointing out that I’m not alone in this sentiment. In fact, a small team of audiophiles in California felt so strongly about this, that they began crafting what they call BoomCases on a daily basis. Basically, BoomCases are recovered cases and boxes that are retrofitted with custom speakers, an input cable, and a long-lasting battery. Not only is it a convenient way to carry around your tunes, but it’s also great in that it recycles otherwise neglected guitar cases, Samsonites, wooden enclosures, and plastic lunchboxes of yesteryear.

Muppet Party Bus BoomCase

BoomCase at the Skate Park

Many of the BoomCases are custom orders, so there is a constant stream of unique sight/sound combinations flowing through their studio. Their stock is always different, so anytime is a good time to take a look at their website.

Some Special Goods (For Holding Up The Trousers)

For Holding Up The Trousers is a refreshingly down-to-earth accessories label that specializes in handmade belts and suspenders. Although the label is proudly based in Denmark, it draws inspiration from late 19th Century Americana both in terms of aesthetics and quality.

Each creation in their line is crafted from honest, durable materials that often include recycled components dating back to the WWII era. There are many one-of-a-kind pieces that reuse vintage hardware, elastic, and even the original leather depending on their condition. If the found materials don’t measure up, they are discarded and replaced with modern components like custom-made ceramic buttons and straight vegetable-tanned leather.

Aside from crafting modern relics, For Holding Up The Trousers produces the majority of its line from scratch. Take for example their “West End Roller” belt (above), where the leather is folded forward around the buckle to reveal a small area of nubuck that is customarily hidden. While scrolling through the images, be sure to keep an eye out for other small innovations like this that play with color, texture, and materials.

For Holding Up The Trousers + Trestle Shop Collaboration Belt

The label is relatively new, but already has an impressive portfolio. Only a couple pieces are shown here, but you can view the rest at their website. You can also see some more work in person if you visit one of their many stockists throughout the US, Europe, & Japan.

Studio Visit: Workhorse Press in Houston, TX

Printmaking has been an interest of mine since I began lithography at university. There is something very honest about the process regardless of which method you encounter. In my studies, I learned that the most important factor to consider when pairing a printing method with an image is to understand the unique visual characteristics of each practice. So when it became time to print up some business cards for Procured, the choice was obvious.

Given my interest in supporting small local artisans, I was thrilled to find out about Workhorse Press in a nearby area of Houston, TX. It is a small outfit of printers and designers who specialize in custom letterpress – encompassing everything from personalized stationery to cork coasters. For those who don’t know, letterpress is a printing process by which ink is applied to the paper by literally pressing into it – leaving an indentation where there is color. The practice has steadily declined since printing technology has ‘improved’ (a business term meaning more cost efficient), but the characteristics of letterpress are unparalleled.

A recent poster for Brazos Book Store’s “Banned Books Week” event printed up on their cylinder press

Suffice it to say, the nature of my work prompted a natural collaboration with Workhorse Press that recently culminated several boxes full of beautiful, handcrafted business cards. During the process, head printer John Earles of the winsomely titled Department of Obsolete Technologies was kind enough to show me around the studio as he worked on my order. I thought it would be a great opportunity to take a look at the entire process, which is outlined below.

The Workhorse Studio Space

One of the aspects I like most about Workhorse is the marriage of antiquated and contemporary technologies. My cards were printed on two separate platen presses that date back to 1898 and the early 1920’s respectively. These presses traditionally used movable wooden type which had to be arranged letter by letter – a process that is both time and labor intensive.

The two platen presses

Assorted Movable Type

While Workhorse is one of the few presses left in America to still utilize this method, my cards were actually crafted using straightforward digital technology. Once the images were finalized in InDesign, the digital file was mapped onto two magnesium plates which are later coated with ink and pressed into the cards one at a time.

The two procured plates – coated with a red “dragon’s blood” resist to prevent any etching that can occur

The plates are then locked in place within what’s called a “chase” (or a metal frame) and held into place by metal or wooden furniture. Once everything is set up, the chase is placed into the press and the printing begins.

Chase, Furniture, & Plate

When printing, there is an overwhelming plentitude of choices concerning inks and papers. Workhorse uses two different types of inks depending on the situation. The first is a soy-based ink that is completely biodegradable and toxin free. The other is rubber-based which is mixed with magnesium carbonate to give the text a uniform and matte finish. Either way, virtually every color they use has to be mixed by hand.

Color Mixing – Adding Magnesium Carbonate to Rubber-based Ink

Workhorse also stocks an abundance of different papers. They have a particularly strong working relationship with OK Paper Company who maintains their only stockpile of 220 lb cotton stock paper in Houston specifically for Workhorse Press. It is a butch, 100% cotton paper that most machines can’t quite handle, so it’s become a sort of signature.

Because they are a custom printmaker, the possibilities are virtually endless in terms of what you can make. But all things considered, it was important to me to keep things simple. An afternoon later we had the final product:

Procured Design Business Card

If you are ever in the Houston area, you should definitely stop in and visit their shop – and if not, at least check out their website. Workhorse shares their space with Spindletop Graphic Design, so there is always something interesting in the works whether it’s letterpressed posters or the latest mockups of local magazines. If you’re lucky, you might even get to leaf through some of their past work with a glass of homemade ginger ale in hand.

Taylor Stitch – Summer Indigo Shirts

Shizuku

When the team at Taylor Stitch creates a new collection, they are inspired by a certain theme. For Spring/Summer ‘12, the label released a limited series of shirts embodying the ocean as understood through traditional Japanese patterns. The line is composed of four pieces, which each feature a different print in variations of indigo and white. Though the kanoko (“dappled”), sazanami (“ripple”), ariso (“rough seashore”), & shizuku (“trickle”) patterns all originated in Japan, the shirts are cut and sewn in the US with great attention to detail. Like all of their readymades, the Indigo Summer prints are crafted with single needle construction, refined with French seams, and adorned with sustainably harvested horn buttons.

Kanoko

Be sure to check out detailed images of each shirt in the gallery below. You can find more information about Taylor Stitch on their website – including an in depth look at their custom tailored shirt service.

Studio Visit: Lucio Nuñez

Lucio Nuñez has made custom flamenco and classical guitars by hand for the vast majority of his life. Having begun in his 20’s, he quickly worked up the skill and expertise to make guitars full-time. His one-man luthiery practice has been in operation for over thirty years and has gained much acclaim amongst clients and apprentices all over the world. It was a distinct pleasure to catch up with Lucio in his studio in San Antonio, TX where we discussed his life, his work, and how to save the world:

________________________

How did you go about making your first guitar?

My brother is an architect, and he got this gig for making closets and doors on the side. He had all the machinery and tools, so I decided that I would make a guitar–horrible thing. I’m sure it’s somewhere out there. You could use it as a hammer, I guess. But that’s how I made my first guitar. I didn’t know anything. I just started, and that was that – figuring out my own way.

What attracted you to guitar-making?

The thing that really attracted me was the shape of the guitar; the curves. And the rosette, which is crazy because it has nothing to do with the sound. I just asked myself “How do they do this?” so I tried different things and ruined a lot of really nice wood until finally that brother of mine said, ‘You are stupid. People have been making guitars for centuries. You should go look, and maybe somebody out there can help you,’ but nobody took pity on me until later when I apprenticed with a luthier that used to work for the National Conservatory of Music. His requirements and schedule gave me some much-needed discipline.

Flamenco Negra

So it was the curiosity in terms of how to make guitars that excited you?

That and the aesthetics. You know the instrument is beautiful, I think. I mean the instrument itself. Obviously Classical and Flamenco music is wonderful, but I wasn’t into that world at the time. I was into other things like jazz and heavy metal.

Did your interest in those other genres influence your guitar-making at all?

Little by little I discovered, for instance, that the jazz players know harmony and chords and extensions. Jazz becomes complex; however, the color range, the tone range, is really small. But the classical guitar, because it works like the whole orchestra, has more intricacies that I didn’t understand at the time. I was just interested in making a guitar, any kind of guitar. I thought that in three months I would know everything about this process. But still, with every instrument, something is missing, and that’s what keeps you going – making mistakes.  And you think that next time, you won’t make the same mistake, but you do.

So what do you have in mind when you set out to make a guitar?

One of my goals is to make an instrument that can come close to reproducing the sound I have in my head. It hasn’t happened yet, but hopefully it will happen sometime before I die. The person who started helping me told me in a mystical and poetic way that the sound is already there in the wood; you just have to go find it.

The problem with this kind of creative work is that you are always trying to satisfy a new need. If you solve that problem, that’s OK. But the subjective side of it is different. Say that the playability is OK, the intonation is OK, but now, are you going to like the actual tone? It’s very subjective. All in all, though, I think the players are the most important factor I consider in my work. I don’t make guitars for myself, partially because I couldn’t buy all the guitars I make, but mostly because I get satisfaction from pairing one of my instruments with a particular player.

Flamenco Negra – Custom Soundport

Obviously it takes a lot of time, effort and expertise to build a hand-made instrument. On the flip side, factories in China can produce guitars that sell for $60. How do you view your work in relation to mass production? Is it a reaction or is it something altogether removed from that idea?

There’s a guitar teacher here in San Antonio, a friend of mine, and we were complaining together, wondering why we do what we do. He said, ‘You know what?  We do this because we are trying to save the world.’

There’s this idea that you should go ahead and buy what is affordable without any other thought or considerations for aspects like quality. My mother at some point put us on a very difficult budget because she was saving to get some pots and pans. So she saved money and went to the store in Mexico City to get really good cookware that is still in our family. But nowadays, you need a frying pan, you go to Wal-Mart and you get one for $5, but it will be in a landfill in 3 weeks. Mass production might be really good for some things, like cars. But traditionally, I think that the great luthiers were trying to make the best instruments they could, and still are, independent of the market around them.

Most of your guitars are custom made to suit each individual customer. Do these clients push your creativity into new realms that you wouldn’t have otherwise visited?

There are makers who design everything and produce a type of guitar. You go to their shops, and they say, ‘Here are my guitars and these are the prices. Take it or don’t, that’s OK.’ I prefer to hear a lot of feedback because that’s how I improve things.

When your work improves, in any field, it gets a bit worrisome to be honest. When someone comes with a different project, and asks if I can do something new, I certainly try. I have a lute that I’m working on right now as well as a 10-string guitar, and I like that. It keeps it interesting. I go to bed thinking of how I’m going to do everything, and I obsess over it, but again that keeps things exciting.

So did you experiment on your own when you were starting out?

I used to do that a lot. I couldn’t control myself. I don’t even buy magazines about guitars because if I see something new, I need to try it. You learn sometimes by doing things that go absolutely wrong. The bigger the mistake, the more you learn. That’s my personal opinion. Of course, you expend time, money, and effort, so sometimes it’s bad to make mistakes, but it’s all part of the experience.

What I like here in the United States is – I don’t want to sound offensive – but it seems that somehow the American tradition is to break with tradition. It leaves room to experiment and try new things. People are open to that here.

Flamenco in Progress

I know lutherie is not an easy business to be in. You must be very passionate about your work.

Absolutely. We need passion. We really do need passion. More than ever nowadays. They say that a writer who doesn’t write dies. We are not just what we do, we are much more than that: feelings, passions, thoughts, etc. I do this because if I didn’t, my life wouldn’t make any sense.

On a final note, am I to take your response to mean that you are fulfilled by what you do?

I am. But there is a lack within the process of guitar making. We all know how guitar makers are; they are obsessed with detail. We are practically hermits. But the point is, it’s a solitary thing. You are basically in your shop sanding and sanding and sanding. You create a lot of dust and noise, which undermines conversation. That’s the very sad part of it for me. You have no idea how much I’m enjoying this interview because luthiers don’t have a chance to talk very much.

But I think you should do what you feel you are called to do. That question, “What am I going to be?” is ridiculous. You are what you are. Whatever discipline you get involved in, there will be a big wall in front of you that has no answer. Sometimes miracles happen in the sense that we finally realize that facing that wall is actually part of embracing a discipline, any discipline.

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If you are interested in learning more about his work, check out his website and scroll through the gallery below for some images of his studio, some works in progress, and some close ups of a finished guitar.

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