Everything about budding leather goods label Atelier Pall juxtaposes old and new. For starters, the brand hinges on collective leatherworking knowledge handed down through several consecutive generations. Yet rather than remain complacent with the family legacy, the craftsman behind the label decided to update their work to create a more modern product line. And thus, Atelier Pall was (re)born.
Atelier Pall natural color inspiration – chestnut
Beneath their wide collection of leather accessories and carrygoods, the label allegorizes the tension between traditional practices and innovative technology—albeit in the best way possible. The vast majority of their products are handcrafted using age-old skills that run throughout the family, yet these same products are designed using the accuracy of vector programming and embellished with laser etching technology.
Not too long ago, husband and wife team Adam and Danise Nance decided to launch Busk & Bask – a small design studio in the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. And while it’s not the first place that comes to mind when one thinks of modern architecture, geometric forms, and handcrafted leather goods, it happens that these three tenets form the basis of a promising young accessories label.
To clarify, Busk & Bask is interested in functionality. Their collection of carry goods features an interesting array of pieces from all-leather briefcases to key fobs, but is devoid of frivolous components, nuances, and embellishments. In this sense, their work poses an interesting paradox. In other words, it is progressively reductive.
Since discovering Artifact Bag Co. late last year, I have quietly championed their work to friends and family in need of beautiful, yet solid carry goods. The label has a diverse collection from vibrantly colored personal effects bags to full on briefcases and totes – all hand crafted from high quality, domestically produced canvas and bridle leathers.
Perhaps it appeals to the sensibilities and circumstance of a fellow maker such as myself, but I am particularly inspired by the story behind the label. Several years ago, Artifact Bag Co. founder Chris Hughes lost his job to the recession, landing in a cubicle working a menial position for little pay. Yet in early 2010, he found a vintage commercial sewing machine on Craig’s List and began making bags, aprons, etc. Initially working in his basement, he left his job before the year was out to run Artifact Bag Co. full time.
Voyageuse bag in black
Writers are often told to write what they know. The same I’m sure, goes for designers. For French creative Valéry Damnon, artistry comes from a deeply personal place. As the founder and designer of his own women’s luxury leather goods label, Damnon combines his most vivid childhood memories with professional insights into the world of haute couture. The result is a collection of accessories that is both captivating and sentimental.
Valéry Damnon at the design table
As a child, Damnon was innately interested in raw materials – specifically the leathers produced by the many tanneries in the surrounding Midi-Pyrénées region of southern France. Picking up on this enthusiasm, his grandmother taught him about an array of different fabrics as well as the art of sewing.
One of the defining aspects of his work is the uncompromising emphasis placed on sourcing the best materials and expertise throughout Europe. As such, each Valéry Damnon piece is designed in Paris with a former prototypist of respected French ateliers. This complete control over the creative process encourages the label to meld innovative new styles with functional components – a favorite of which being the integrated mirror in their Mutine clutch (pictured below).
Mutine clutch with integrated mirror
Damnon’s interest in process also extends to working with other makers to develop new materials unique to his label. For instance, all of his leathers are custom dyed by select tanneries throughout France and Italy, while the colors themselves are inspired by Damnon’s favorite paintings. Their black colorway is especially exciting. It references the work of Pierre Soulage, who demonstrates that black is not just a singular hue, but an amalgam of different tones. As such, the black lamb leather developed for Damnon’s bags carries subtle undertones of grey, brown, and green. His current collection also references the works by Nicolas de Stael, Mark Rothko, and Yves Klein (below).
Delicieuse bag in “Yves Klein” blue
As for the bags themselves, they are individually handcrafted in Portugal by a small family-run studio of leatherworkers who extend back many generations.
DI1307NW01 – “Tirol Wing” Brogue Boot Detail
Over the past year, Italian luxury shoe label Diemme has continually pushed its own boundaries to design both bigger and better seasonal collections. Their spring campaign for example debuted an expanded sneaker offering that capitalized on a variety of styles and new colorways previously unprecedented at Diemme. For Fall/Winter, the label continues this momentum in releasing a large and varied collection of high-performance, handmade footwear. They’ve even included a few surprises.
DI1309AN02 – “Anatra” Duck Boot
DI1309TI01 – “Tibet” Boot Leather Detail
The new collection is just progressive enough, without sacrificing the quality and heritage that makes a Diemme shoe worthwhile. As you may have guessed, the label still derives its inspiration from the Alps, which surround their factory in Northern Italy. Rugged yet beautiful, the collection mirrors that legacy through traditional iterations of key favorites like their Roccia Vet and Firenze boot. However they have also reworked or improved many of these styles – the most notable of which being their new Roccia Due, which features a reinforcing overlay panel among other new embellishments.
If I were a better student, I could quote the now nameless philosopher and anthropologist who argued that creativity is inseparably bound to cultural context. In other words, a revolutionary – say van Gogh – could never create in a vacuum. Artwork, ideas, music, &c. all stem from, and are framed by, the society in which they are created.
Vincent van Gogh - “The Siesta (after Millet)” 1890, Oil on canvas
One thing I’ve noticed about the patrons of the creative world – of collectors, sponsors, and the like – is that they often misunderstand this concept. For many of them, the only work worth appreciating is that which undermines tradition: the avant-garde and the inexplicable. There is a time and place for everything (especially innovation), but it’s important to not get caught up in what makes something different as opposed to what makes something wonderful.
Designer Ann-Sofi and intern at work
If I’m guilty of anything as a budding aesthete, it’s my preference towards the natural progression of things. I enjoy looking at the work of creative people and seeing the traditions that fueled them, both in design and process. This is partly why I so much admire the work by Väska – a small leather goods label that marries the best of Nordic minimalism with traditional craftsmanship.
How many ways are there to make a leather bag? About 3.5 million, give or take a few. There is such an incredible variety of shapes, aesthetics, materials, qualities, and price points that it can make you dizzy if you focus too hard on finding the right one. Yet for all these considerations, I very much admire the work by Amee Hinkley of Ash & Ore – a small leather goods label out of Boulder, CO.
Rosie Bucket Tote (in Cobalt)
Space Tote – Detailing
What was immediately apparent to me when I first saw her collection of handmade bags and wallets is that they all felt rather personal. Surely every artisan has a special relationship with his or her products, but the sensibilities of those by Ash & Ore felt rooted in something deeper.
Jaqet is a small accessories label out of California that produces a handsome line of handcrafted leather goods. Both in process and form, their work is rooted in utilitarianism. Each of their many wallets and lanyards are designed to be useful – meaning of course that there are no unnecessary frills about them.
black iphone wallet
lanyard in saddle
What really strikes me about Jaqet is their unique aesthetic sensibility. The mixture of curved and geometric lines throughout their collection is particularly successful, especially in their trapezoidal coin wallet below. Yet in contrast to the simplicity of their pieces, Jaqet’s most intriguing embellishment stems from a subtle celebration of their process.
Finland isn’t the first place I would associate with bicycle commuting, but I was surprised to learn that they have a vibrant biking community despite the extreme weather conditions. While many would view the harsh winter climate as a total deal breaker, the folks at Kasperi see it as both an opportunity and a creative challenge.
Kasperi is a small biking accessory and outfitting label that is based entirely in Finland. Wanting to rise up to the challenges posed by Mother Nature, the brand produces a line of incredibly durable leather goods specifically tailored towards cyclists.
This is a very niche endeavor that naturally begs the question: but how exactly do you go about this? For Kasperi, the answer lies in a healthy collaboration between high-performance materials, practical designs, and close to home production.
Natural Vegetable-Tanned Leather (Before & After)
For me, much of the allure of leather stems from breaking it in so to speak. I love the changing hues and subtle scuffs that develop with everyday wear. I’d go so far as to say that a person should take pride in their personal patina, but it’s easy to get carried away.
Because I’m interested in the process behind the patina, I am somewhat out of my element when it comes to vintage leather goods. I can certainly appreciate the scuffs and blemishes that give life to an old, beat up suitcase or your daddy’s work belt, but nothing can top making a leather good yours from day one.
Corter Leather – Postal Bi-fold Collection
1950′s US Postal Service Leather Bags
Yet when I discovered the most recent release by Corter Leather, I had to revise my thinking. For a special summer release, Eric Heins (the one-man operation that is Corter Leather) handcrafted 17 bi-fold wallets using recycled leather from vintage US Postal Service satchels. As you’ll see, these pieces combine the best of both worlds: the ‘blank canvas’ of unadulterated vegetable-tanned leather with that of its well-worn postal predecessor.
Having the hindsight and benefit of working in a family business, I can attest first hand to the ups and downs of sharing space with loved ones. At times it’s not an easy thing (in fact I venture to say that most people couldn’t do it) but there is a special synergy that you discover when you are more than just coworkers. This in part is why I have so much respect for Palmer & Sons. As you might have guessed, this Canadian leather goods label is comprised of a father and son who work together to design, prototype, and produce each piece in their collection entirely by hand.
One of the aspects I most admire about the label is their distinct Herculean aesthetic. With thick hides and bountiful rivets, their goods seem almost gratuitously sturdy. But therein lies the appeal: their bags are built for a lifetime (or three or four). To guarantee this, Palmer & Sons rely on traditional production methods, tools, and knowhow. Furthermore – and perhaps more unusually – each piece is crafted one at a time from start to finish.
A collection of belts & handmade brass hardware
Working in the film industry is an interesting prerequisite to launching one’s own fashion accessories label, but that’s precisely what happened for designer Tannis Hegan. Drawing on a decade of experience as a leatherworker and costume designer, she decided to break off and launch her self-titled line back in 2007. Since then, her work has won her a notable reputation for her immaculate eye and uncompromising emphasis on quality.
Goatskin, canvas, & wood carryall
earmuffs made of recycled vintage fur and custom made spring steel
Her most recent collection certainly showcases both of these characteristics. To start, almost everything is completely handcrafted – even down to minor components like solid brass hardware. One of the more rewarding aspects about her designs is that she seems interested in the natural beauty of her materials. A particular favorite is her clutch (below), which features a hand molded wooden handle.
There are certain very rare moments when I see something so beautiful that I stop and just stare in amazement. Almost out loud, I’ll wonder, “who made this” or “how did they do that” before diving in to slake my curiosity. It was in this fashion on a non-descript Paris street that I discovered the leatherwork by Bertrand Montillet.
It was already late afternoon when we walked into Altan Bottier – a luxury leather shoe atelier in the 8th arrondissement. Amongst the crowded rows of derbys and oxfords, I was drawn to a small collection of envelope-shaped leather cardholders and wallets in a floor level curio cabinet. Though only dimly lit inside the case, it was clear how much care went into crafting each piece; the details were immaculate. The wallets were obviously made by hand, yet each one featured uniform saddle stitches and perfectly sealed edges. Every single piece was a tiny work of art.
In embarrassingly broken (but enthusiastic) French, I asked the storeowner for more information about the leather cases. After an entertaining exchange of Franglais, he rummaged through some cards on his desk and handed me one that read “Bertrand Montillet.” I barely had time to put two and two together before he reached into another drawer and revealed his personal glasses case. I had never seen anything like it before – at least not in leather. It was comprised of two cylindrical pieces, which were threaded on the inside (like a screw) with manipulated leather. That was the clincher: I had to know more about M. Montillet.
So four months and a commission later, I was lucky enough to interview M. Montillet about his work, his passion, and his underlying creative process. For posterity, the interview below is in both English and French but be sure to scroll all the way through to see a generous collection of his work. Thanks to Jacqueline Sime for the translations.
Here’s a challenge: over the weekend, go to the most densely crowded public area you know of and clandestinely catalogue the variety of handbags women carry around. If you’re in a major metropolitan area, I bet you any amount of money that you will find bags of all shapes, sizes, materials, and price ranges, but you’ll only find a select few that are handmade.
Opelle – Handmade “Botanist” Bag
So why is it that people seek out designer handbags that are machine made in factories overseas? I have no idea. Frankly, I don’t want to know – but I like to think it’s because they haven’t heard of the select few artisans who are producing beautiful handmade leather bags closer to home (and at a much more reasonable price).
In the spirit of conscious consumerism, I’d like to introduce Opelle – a women’s leather goods label run out of a tiny studio in Toronto. They handcraft a beautiful collection of totes, carryalls, and clutches coveted by women in search of a grounded alternative to modern fashion.
I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not much on fashion accessories. Aside from neckwear, I almost don’t see the point. But when Barrett Alley contacted me about wearing two of his handmade leather bracelets, I decided that his workmanship was worth giving it a go.
Valerie Bracelet in Natural
Bipartisan Bracelet Reverse Shell Cordovan
I’ve been a fan of Barrett’s work for a long time now. For those of you who aren’t familiar, he and his wife Camélia handcraft a beautiful range of leather goods in their studio in Dallas, TX. For aesthetic and environmental reasons, they only source the best vegetable-tanned leather available – including the much-coveted Shell Cordovan from Horween in Chicago. Every now and then, they also work with custom bark-tanned, hunter harvested deer hides. Yet no matter which leather they use, Barrett Alley is well known for incorporating vintage materials like recovered Meiji era textiles or Civil War era buttons into their work. In other words, it’s a carefully curated and well-considered labor of love.
There is a special space in our woodshop where I have been archiving the drop-offs and remnants from various jobs over the last couple months. It’s comprised mostly of thin strips and short stubs that are useful for little more than kindling. But in a moment of inspiration, I raided my plunder and decided to put some of these scraps to good use. Now with one fewer item on my bucket list, I have successfully crafted my first homemade skateboard.
The first ride in Houston’s EZ-7 skate ditch (photo by Charles Rooney)
1. Handmade Natural Chromexcel Tote by Teranishi Handcrafted 2. Surfer Tote by Baggu 3. Gera Bag by WMJ Mills 4. Canvas Tote by MAKR 5. [Destination] Market Bag by Apolis 6. Handmade Chromexcel & Copper bag by Emil Erwin 7. Handmade 200 Bag by Doug Johnston 8. Handmade Red Tote by Lumina (in collaboration with Parrott) 9.Neon Carryall by Clare Vivier
You may remember an introduction to Danish accessories label For Holding Up The Trousers several months back. Since then, FHUTT has entertained a great deal of success around the world and has popped up in boutiques throughout Europe, Asia, and even North America. Their newest line is sure to continue that momentum.
While certain components don’t change (vegetable-tanned leather, handmade ceramic buttons, vintage military hardware, &c), their S/S ’13 collection is much bolder in terms of colors, contrasts, and detailing. There is a new emphasis on embellished hand stitching in their belts, which adds a nice design element to the collection. In addition to some new hardware, FHUTT has also released their first ever Deadstock Danish Civil Defense Blanket that features a matching leather carrier. But rather than read about the new collection, take a look for yourself in the gallery below. Be sure to stay posted to FHUTT‘s website for the entire lookbook.
- 1304 Navy & Silver Detail
- Vegetable Tanned Leather
- 1314 Deadstock Blanket
- 1301LTD Red & White Contrast
- Nickel plated steel, brass, copper, parkerized steel, vintage military
- 1309LTD (Green) & 1310LTD (Black)
- 1305 Brown 1306 Black
- Wax Linen Thread
- 1304 Navy & Silver
- 1302LTD Detail
- Handmade Ceramic Buttons
- 1303 Green Clasp Detail
- 1303 Detail
- Vegetable Tanned Leather Belts (1311, 1312, 1313)
- 1302LTD Stitch Detail
The Good Flock is a small designer/artisan-run company based in Portland, Oregon that handcrafts their entire line of accessories in a sustainable manner. The team only sources responsibly harvested materials ranging anywhere from domestically produced Cone Mills denim to Pendleton EcoWise wool in an effort to not only craft better goods, but to maintain our environment.
But while they have established a deserving legacy for their utilitarian carry goods, The Good Flock recently expanded it’s scope and raised the bar with their newly released Aurora lamp.
Consisting of sustainably harvested white oak, each lamp is turned by hand in a woodshop just south of Portland. It is designed to be minimally invasive in terms of tabletop or wall real estate – a trait which also makes the piece extremely versatile. Finally, because its lines and forms are so well balanced, its bound to complement virtually any aesthetic.
Be sure to check out their making-of video (if for no other reason than to learn about the values and considerations that make The Good Flock so special). It’s a promising step forward in building a steady future for American craftsmanship!
Justin Parker and Andi Kovel are the co-founders of Esque Studio – a small atelier based in Portland, Oregon which specializes in handmade glass wares and novelties. Drawing inspiration from different molding techniques, the duo crafts an assortment of functional and decorative goods that span a wide spectrum of aesthetics.
Nest Terrarium with hand cast bronze hook & vachetta leather strap
Cloche & Walnut Cheese Platter
What is particularly special about Esque Studios isn’t so much their goods, but rather their enthusiastic incorporation of various working methods and materials. The duo often dips into custom leather or woodworking to keep things fresh and distinctly one-of-a-kind. For example, their hanging terrarium dangles from a strip of vegetable-tanned leather, which functions like a Chinese finger trap. Similarly, their cheeseboard features hand-formed glass cloches nestled into a heavily grained walnut or maple slab.
.38 Special Revolver
Anatomical Heart Vase
Much of their work is utilitarian and minimal, yet there are some playful moments throughout their portfolio. The most impressive example being their molded .38 revolver, which is entirely formed by hand. (Check out the detailing in the handle and trigger in the image above.) Aside from that, their slightly more macabre skull is an interesting decorative piece, which straddles an agreeable balance between representation and obliquity. It’s important to note that these pieces are only the tip of the iceberg. There is plenty more to see over at the Esque Studio website!
- Terrarium with vent hold & cork stopper
- Silvered Skull
- "Blob" Bowl - gathered glass over color & spun off center
- Salt & Pepper Shakers - formed from antique dolls
- Anatomical Heart Vase
- Cloche & Walnut Cheese Platter
- .38 Special Revolver
- "Off" Pitcher & Cup
- Nest Terrarium with hand cast bronze hook & vachetta leather strap