March 25, 2013 by Jake

Palmer & Sons – Family, Brawn, and Leather Goods

Having the hindsight and benefit of working in a family business, I can attest first hand to the ups and downs of sharing space with loved ones. At times it’s not an easy thing (in fact I venture to say that most people couldn’t do it) but there is a special synergy that you discover when you are more than just coworkers. This in part is why I have so much respect for Palmer & Sons. As you might have guessed, this Canadian leather goods label is comprised of a father and son who work together to design, prototype, and produce each piece in their collection entirely by hand.

One of the aspects I most admire about the label is their distinct Herculean aesthetic. With thick hides and bountiful rivets, their goods seem almost gratuitously sturdy. But therein lies the appeal: their bags are built for a lifetime (or three or four). To guarantee this, Palmer & Sons rely on traditional production methods, tools, and knowhow. Furthermore – and perhaps more unusually – each piece is crafted one at a time from start to finish.

March 21, 2013 by Jake

Tannis Hegan – Handcrafted Women’s Accessories

A collection of belts & handmade brass hardware

Working in the film industry is an interesting prerequisite to launching one’s own fashion accessories label, but that’s precisely what happened for designer Tannis Hegan. Drawing on a decade of experience as a leatherworker and costume designer, she decided to break off and launch her self-titled line back in 2007. Since then, her work has won her a notable reputation for her immaculate eye and uncompromising emphasis on quality.

Goatskin, canvas, & wood carryall

earmuffs made of recycled vintage fur and custom made spring steel

Her most recent collection certainly showcases both of these characteristics. To start, almost everything is completely handcrafted – even down to minor components like solid brass hardware. One of the more rewarding aspects about her designs is that she seems interested in the natural beauty of her materials. A particular favorite is her clutch (below), which features a hand molded wooden handle.

March 11, 2013 by Jake

Interview with Bertrand Montillet – Master Maroquinier

There are certain very rare moments when I see something so beautiful that I stop and just stare in amazement. Almost out loud, I’ll wonder, “who made this” or “how did they do that” before diving in to slake my curiosity. It was in this fashion on a non-descript Paris street that I discovered the leatherwork by Bertrand Montillet.

It was already late afternoon when we walked into Altan Bottier – a luxury leather shoe atelier in the 8th arrondissement. Amongst the crowded rows of derbys and oxfords, I was drawn to a small collection of envelope-shaped leather cardholders and wallets in a floor level curio cabinet. Though only dimly lit inside the case, it was clear how much care went into crafting each piece; the details were immaculate. The wallets were obviously made by hand, yet each one featured uniform saddle stitches and perfectly sealed edges. Every single piece was a tiny work of art.

In embarrassingly broken (but enthusiastic) French, I asked the storeowner for more information about the leather cases. After an entertaining exchange of Franglais, he rummaged through some cards on his desk and handed me one that read “Bertrand Montillet.” I barely had time to put two and two together before he reached into another drawer and revealed his personal glasses case. I had never seen anything like it before – at least not in leather. It was comprised of two cylindrical pieces, which were threaded on the inside (like a screw) with manipulated leather. That was the clincher: I had to know more about M. Montillet.

So four months and a commission later, I was lucky enough to interview M. Montillet about his work, his passion, and his underlying creative process. For posterity, the interview below is in both English and French but be sure to scroll all the way through to see a generous collection of his work. Thanks to Jacqueline Sime for the translations.

March 8, 2013 by Jake

Opelle’s Handmade Leather Bags: A Thoughtful Alternative to Modern Fashion

Here’s a challenge: over the weekend, go to the most densely crowded public area you know of and clandestinely catalogue the variety of handbags women carry around. If you’re in a major metropolitan area, I bet you any amount of money that you will find bags of all shapes, sizes, materials, and price ranges, but you’ll only find a select few that are handmade.

Opelle – Handmade “Botanist” Bag

So why is it that people seek out designer handbags that are machine made in factories overseas? I have no idea. Frankly, I don’t want to know – but I like to think it’s because they haven’t heard of the select few artisans who are producing beautiful handmade leather bags closer to home (and at a much more reasonable price).

In the spirit of conscious consumerism, I’d like to introduce Opelle – a women’s leather goods label run out of a tiny studio in Toronto. They handcraft a beautiful collection of totes, carryalls, and clutches coveted by women in search of a grounded alternative to modern fashion.

February 28, 2013 by Jake

Well-worn: Barrett Alley’s “Valerie” & “Bipartisan” Bracelets

I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not much on fashion accessories. Aside from neckwear, I almost don’t see the point. But when Barrett Alley contacted me about wearing two of his handmade leather bracelets, I decided that his workmanship was worth giving it a go.

Valerie Bracelet in Natural

Bipartisan Bracelet Reverse Shell Cordovan

I’ve been a fan of Barrett’s work for a long time now. For those of you who aren’t familiar, he and his wife Camélia handcraft a beautiful range of leather goods in their studio in Dallas, TX. For aesthetic and environmental reasons, they only source the best vegetable-tanned leather available – including the much-coveted Shell Cordovan from Horween in Chicago. Every now and then, they also work with custom bark-tanned, hunter harvested deer hides. Yet no matter which leather they use, Barrett Alley is well known for incorporating vintage materials like recovered Meiji era textiles or Civil War era buttons into their work. In other words, it’s a carefully curated and well-considered labor of love.

February 21, 2013 by Jake

A Line Off My Bucket List

There is a special space in our woodshop where I have been archiving the drop-offs and remnants from various jobs over the last couple months. It’s comprised mostly of thin strips and short stubs that are useful for little more than kindling. But in a moment of inspiration, I raided my plunder and decided to put some of these scraps to good use. Now with one fewer item on my bucket list, I have successfully crafted my first homemade skateboard.

The first ride in Houston’s EZ-7 skate ditch (photo by Charles Rooney)

February 18, 2013 by Jake

Hunter + Gatherer: The Market Tote

1. Handmade Natural Chromexcel Tote by Teranishi Handcrafted 2. Surfer Tote by Baggu 3. Gera Bag by WMJ Mills 4. Canvas Tote by MAKR 5. [Destination] Market Bag by Apolis 6. Handmade Chromexcel & Copper bag by Emil Erwin 7. Handmade 200 Bag by Doug Johnston 8. Handmade Red Tote by Lumina (in collaboration with Parrott) 9.Neon Carryall by Clare Vivier

February 5, 2013 by Jake

For Holding Up The Trousers – Spring/Summer ’13

You may remember an introduction to Danish accessories label For Holding Up The Trousers several months back. Since then, FHUTT has entertained a great deal of success around the world and has popped up in boutiques throughout Europe, Asia, and even North America. Their newest line is sure to continue that momentum.

While certain components don’t change (vegetable-tanned leather, handmade ceramic buttons, vintage military hardware, &c), their S/S ’13 collection is much bolder in terms of colors, contrasts, and detailing. There is a new emphasis on embellished hand stitching in their belts, which adds a nice design element to the collection. In addition to some new hardware, FHUTT has also released their first ever Deadstock Danish Civil Defense Blanket that features a matching leather carrier. But rather than read about the new collection, take a look for yourself in the gallery below. Be sure to stay posted to FHUTT‘s website for the entire lookbook.

: 1304 Navy & Silver Detail

: Vegetable Tanned Leather

: 1314 Deadstock Blanket

: 1301LTD Red & White Contrast

: Nickel plated steel, brass, copper, parkerized steel, vintage military

: 1309LTD (Green) & 1310LTD (Black)

: 1305 Brown 1306 Black

: Wax Linen Thread

: 1304 Navy & Silver

: 1302LTD Detail

: Handmade Ceramic Buttons

: 1303 Green Clasp Detail

: 1303 Detail

: Vegetable Tanned Leather Belts (1311, 1312, 1313)

: 1302LTD Stitch Detail

January 28, 2013 by Jake

The Good Flock – “Aurora” Lamp

The Good Flock is a small designer/artisan-run company based in Portland, Oregon that handcrafts their entire line of accessories in a sustainable manner. The team only sources responsibly harvested materials ranging anywhere from domestically produced Cone Mills denim to Pendleton EcoWise wool in an effort to not only craft better goods, but to maintain our environment.

But while they have established a deserving legacy for their utilitarian carry goods, The Good Flock recently expanded it’s scope and raised the bar with their newly released Aurora lamp.

Consisting of sustainably harvested white oak, each lamp is turned by hand in a woodshop just south of Portland. It is designed to be minimally invasive in terms of tabletop or wall real estate – a trait which also makes the piece extremely versatile. Finally, because its lines and forms are so well balanced, its bound to complement virtually any aesthetic.

Be sure to check out their making-of video (if for no other reason than to learn about the values and considerations that make The Good Flock so special). It’s a promising step forward in building a steady future for American craftsmanship!

January 15, 2013 by Jake

Reflections & Revelations – Glassware by Esque Studio

Justin Parker and Andi Kovel are the co-founders of Esque Studio – a small atelier based in Portland, Oregon which specializes in handmade glass wares and novelties. Drawing inspiration from different molding techniques, the duo crafts an assortment of functional and decorative goods that span a wide spectrum of aesthetics.

Nest Terrarium with hand cast bronze hook & vachetta leather strap

Cloche & Walnut Cheese Platter

What is particularly special about Esque Studios isn’t so much their goods, but rather their enthusiastic incorporation of various working methods and materials. The duo often dips into custom leather or woodworking to keep things fresh and distinctly one-of-a-kind. For example, their hanging terrarium dangles from a strip of vegetable-tanned leather, which functions like a Chinese finger trap. Similarly, their cheeseboard features hand-formed glass cloches nestled into a heavily grained walnut or maple slab.

.38 Special Revolver

Anatomical Heart Vase

Much of their work is utilitarian and minimal, yet there are some playful moments throughout their portfolio. The most impressive example being their molded .38 revolver, which is entirely formed by hand. (Check out the detailing in the handle and trigger in the image above.) Aside from that, their slightly more macabre skull is an interesting decorative piece, which straddles an agreeable balance between representation and obliquity. It’s important to note that these pieces are only the tip of the iceberg. There is plenty more to see over at the Esque Studio website!

: Terrarium with vent hold & cork stopper

: Silvered Skull

: "Blob" Bowl - gathered glass over color & spun off center

: Salt & Pepper Shakers - formed from antique dolls

: Anatomical Heart Vase

: Cloche & Walnut Cheese Platter

: .38 Special Revolver

: "Off" Pitcher & Cup

: Nest Terrarium with hand cast bronze hook & vachetta leather strap

January 10, 2013 by Jake

O My Bag – An Ecological Study of Philanthropy & Leather Bags

The leather messengers and totes from Amsterdam’s O My Bag are creating new standards for handmade carry goods. In addition to being well-designed, their production methods help to improve social attitudes about human potential – whether by employing the needy or saving the planet through clever ingenuity. In this sense, each piece from O My Bag is a carefully crafted reminder that there is a viable (and more beneficial) alternative to automated and mechanized production.

Frankie Fierce in Camel

Besides being an up-and-coming label, O My Bag is best characterized as an philanthropic venture that adheres to Fair Trade Labor standards and develops new eco-conscious production practices. In terms of production, everything takes place in a small, unlikely town outside of Kolkata, India. Though the work is technically outsourced from Amsterdam, it is done in a responsible manner that channels money and opportunity into a single struggling local economy. O My Bag offers employment to many who otherwise can’t find work – most often women and the disabled. In addition to paying wages that are 60% above comparable manufacturing jobs in the region, O My Bag also covers health insurance and offers educational opportunities to its workers and their families.

Adding the final touches

Along with the philanthropic aspect of the label, O My Bag works to advance technologies that help the environment. They have partnered with leather specialist Patrick Lee and Sheong Shi Tannery to develop what they call ‘eco-leather.’ This modified tanning process requires fewer resources and completely bypasses the use of harmful chemicals. In fact, Sheong Shi Tannery is the first in Kolkata to tan leather without using chrome, PCP, or AZO dyes – all of which create toxic working conditions and run-off. As if this isn’t enough, O My Bag also uses hides harvested from local cows that died of sickness or old age. Seeing as most of India’s leather comes from slaughterhouses in South America and Africa, this is a huge improvement in terms of shortening the production chain and redistributing money to local workers.

Posh Stacey Tote in Camel

Given the standards they maintain for their workers and the environment, it should come as no surprise that these bags are not only durable, but are beautiful to boot. O My Bag features a number of different models in a given collection – all of which span a wide range of aesthetics and functions. Regardless of your preference, they are virtually all secured with robust stitching, sturdy hardware, and custom-dyed leather.

Check out some images from their most recent collection in the gallery below. For more insight into the brand or its process, be sure to visit the O My Bag website.

: Frankie Fierce in Brown

: Adding the final touches

: Posh Stacey Tote in Camel

: Dirty Harry Messenger

: In the studio

: Frankie Fierce in Camel

January 8, 2013 by Jake

American Heritage – A Look at Oak Street Bootmakers

At one point in our history, trades and traditions were handed down through the family tree. Lawyers bred lawyers, cobblers bred cobblers, and so on. Of course, this system limited the vocational possibilities for younger generations, but it conversely guaranteed a heightened emphasis on quality and expertise regardless of the family legacy.

Yet for better or worse, this heritage has been virtually phased out in America – leaving behind only a select few family businesses that specialize in heirloom trades. Within that already limited category, Oak Street Bootmakers is one of the better success stories. The label was founded on generations of traditional shoemaking knowledge and produces some of the best-crafted shoes on the market. To do so, founder, designer, and master cobbler George Vlagos draws on skills he learned from his father to craft a wide variety of handmade leather shoes ranging from penny loafers to work boots.

Given his insights into the industry, Vlagos ensures that each pair is properly constructed with the best materials available. In addition to being cut and sewn by hand, every shoe is outfitted with replaceable outsoles for added durability. Everything is stitched by hand with waxed thread and finished with Vibram soles/toplifts to ensure a sturdy footing where you meet the road. Additionally, Oak Street Bootmakers sources their leather from the renowned Horween Leather Co., which produces trademark leathers that are coveted by shoemakers all over the globe. (Conveniently, the two companies are only separated by a 40 minute drive – a factor which cuts down on transportation costs and it’s harmful byproducts!)

As a company, Oak Street Bootmakers is dedicated to more than just the art of shoemaking. To ensure that their work remains in tip-top shape, they also produce a number of shoe care products. In addition to natural conditioning oils and cleaning tools, the label also offers custom cedar shoe trees that maintain the shape of the shoe and prevent moisture from accumulating during storage. It’s a pretty passionate endeavor.

Be sure to view some hi-resolution images of their shoes and accessories in the gallery below. You can also view their entire collection and gain insights into their process by visiting the Oak Street Bootmakers website.

As I may very well be in the market, let me know which pair is your favorite!

: Suede Trail Oxford

: Brazilian Horsehair Shoe Brush

: Navy Chromexcel Trail Oxford

: Navy Hunt Boot Lookbook

: Aromatic Cedar Shoe Trees

: Beefroll Penny Loafer

January 4, 2013 by Jake

A Selective Inventory of San Francisco’s “General Store”

When thinking about the sourdough bread, the SFMOMA, and Beach Blanket Babylon, it’s hard to figure out a way to make San Francisco any better. At least that was up until I stumbled on a well-known local treasure.

General Store – Assortment of Goods & Wares

General Store, run by Serena Mitnik-Miller and Mason St. Peter, is a small shop that houses pretty much anything one could want, need, or justify for daily life. Given the store’s interest in supporting artisans, I was thrilled to find a large number of handmade items throughout their inventory – many of which come straight out of the studios of craftspeople who reside locally in the Bay Area.

Though it’s worth taking a moment to check out the store on your own, I decided to curate a small list of my six favorite handmade goods from General Store. While scrolling through, be sure to visit the artists’ own websites when available!

Hand Carved Wooden Spoons – Jon Shade

Handwoven Textural Scarves – Lookout Wonderland

Hanging Ceramic Planter – Collaboration between Kat Hutter & Roger Lee

Wooden Cutting Boards - Luke Bartels

Sixteen Barrettes – Sioux Tribe Members

Tooled Leather Coasters – Commune Design

If you ever find yourself in the San Francisco or Venice area, be sure to drop in for a visit. Because their goods are procured from vintage sources and contemporary studios, there is always something new to discover!

January 2, 2013 by Jake

Cause & Effect for NeedSupplyCo – A Limited Series of Handmade Belts

The purveyors of all things good at Need Supply Co. recently released an exclusive collection of three handmade belts by Cause & Effect – a small label out of Tennessee that specializes in benchmade leather goods and custom metal work.

One Lined Buckle Detail

Like the rest of the goods from Cause and Effect, each piece in the series is crafted entirely by hand. The belts are cut from premium vegetable tanned leather and are then adorned with custom-cast brass or copper buckles. Yet what’s unique about the Need Supply Co collection in particular is that each belt is hand-painted as well.

Two Lined Belt Profile

There are three different motifs that combine various color and stylistic elements. My personal favorite is the incarnadine belt, which features two etched lines around its circumference that reveal the natural leather underneath. Overtime, these stripes of exposed leather will darken and will thus support an ever-changing contrast with the red. As a final touch, the rustic hand-hammered brass buckle pulls everything together.

Be sure to check out additional images of the collaboration in the gallery below. As always, you can learn more about these pieces and other by visiting the respective websites for Cause & Effect or Need Supply Co.

: Distressed Black Buckle Detail

: Two Lined Buckle Detail

: One Lined Buckle Detail

: Distressed Black Belt Profile

: Two Lined Belt Profile

: One Lined Belt Profile

December 19, 2012 by Jake

Teranishi Handcrafted – Single Hole Bespoke Belt

It never occurred to me that a bespoke belt could have a single hole to mark the user’s specific size. In that sense, this piece from the Teranishi Handcrafted archives speaks to the fundamental values of the brand; it is an understated and carefully constructed leather good with a unique life to live.

Made from premium vegetable-tanned leather, the natural hue is certain to develop an exceptionally rich caramel patina based on the rigors of daily wear. But what is particularly intriguing about this belt is that it exudes a sense of tailor-made confidence and stability. Conversely, it may also allow the wearer a certain savoir-faire in punching his/her own additional holes. (Perhaps this user interaction might even lead to unique decorative embellishments. Who knows?) Either way, the belt is a telling symbol of the wearer’s personality.

If you haven’t already, be sure to take a look at Teranishi Handcrafted’s line of handmade leather goods, which includes everything from other wearables to wallets.

December 10, 2012 by Jake

Case Study: Work Oxfords

I wear work oxfords literally everyday, whether I’m in the woodshop or helping out in the studio. As such, I have very strong feelings about their quality, durability, and aesthetics. Admittedly, these criteria are somewhat ironic because the first work oxfords were not designed to look pretty. They were built to get the job done. Yet for better or worse, these shoes have gradually made their way into the fashion world where they now enjoy a surprising popularity among urbanites and laborers alike. Not all oxfords however, are created with the same applications in mind. Here is a curated survey of three that stand out among the throngs:

Red Wing Heritage “8109 Oxford”

I am particularly partial to these oxfords from Red Wing Heritage because I know first-hand how comfortable and durable they are. They feature custom leather from S.B. Foot Tanning Co. that is robust and water-resistant. The impressionable Cushion Crepe Wedge soles are easy to break in, but sturdy enough to withstand the perils of almost any working environment. The shoes are crafted using Norwegian Welt construction, so the soles are replaceable if you wear them out completely – but you’ll have to work really hard to do so! As an added bonus, these shoes are entirely made in the US.

Atelier Heschung “Tsuga” Oxford

This pair is entirely made by hand in France using traditional Norwegian crafting techniques (including the welt mentioned above). The durable full grain leather on the exterior is complemented with a natural calfskin inner lining for added comfort. Similarly, Atelier Heschung uses a bellows tongue that renders this shoe virtually waterproof by catching any liquid that would otherwise seep in. The rounded toe offers slightly less protection against falling objects, but makes the shoe more suitable for casual social outings. All in all, it’s a great hybrid between high performance and good looks.

Dsquared2 “Moc Toe Winter Lace-up”

image courtesy of www.oki-ni.com

Of the three, this version from Canada’s Dsquared2 is as close to couture as a work oxford can get. They are made in Italy using supple vachetta leather, which is certain to develop a rich patina with age. In a similar stylistic nuance, the shoes feature a contrasting white and red double-stitch detail over the toe. The small metal maple leaf insignia is also a nice touch – albeit a purely aesthetic one. But despite their many visual attributes, these shoes are also made with a long-lasting Vibram sole and an incredible attention to detail. That said, I still would not wear these to work!

November 29, 2012 by Jake

Jennifer Behr – Lambskin Ponytail Wrap

Sometimes all it takes is a little nuance to dress up a look. In this case, these leather wraps from Jennifer Behr update an otherwise casual ponytail. They are made by hand in New York City and are available in several colorways ranging from loud to understated.

Be sure to check them out on the Jennifer Behr website, but also feel free to scroll through her other hair accessories.

November 19, 2012 by Jake

Studio D’Artisan – Mid Length Wallet

One of the most rewarding aspects about this blog is that I constantly find great wares in unexpected places. In this case, I am particularly enamored by a relatively simple wallet from Japanese fashion label Studio D’Artisan.

Wallet Profile (image courtesy of Blue in Green)

Though many only associate Studio D’Artisan with high quality Japanese selvedge denim, the brand nonetheless deserves a similar reputation for its striking leather goods. To start, these mid length wallets are handcrafted in Japan from the same vegetable-tanned leather as renowned Italian shoemaker Buttero. Thus each piece has unique characteristics that are further accentuated during the dyeing process. To fully appreciate the potential of this leather, most of the wallet interiors are left natural to allow for a user-specific patina to develop both inside and out.

Wallet Exterior (image courtesy of Blue in Green)

Side Profile (image courtesy of Studio D’Artisan)

All this aside, what is most intriguing about these wallets is the contrast between the unassuming exterior and the functional interior. With six card slots, a zippered coin pouch, a space for bank notes and a hidden pocket, this design offers more storage than traditional bi-folds without the bulk of a Costanza wallet.

Wallet Interior (image courtesy of Blue in Green)

The curved lines throughout the interior are particularly beautiful given how angular and constricted wallets can be. It’s refreshing to see design that alludes to the leather’s organic origins rather than reducing it to geometric shapes.

Be sure to check out these wallets by visiting the Studio D’Artisan website or, if you can’t read Japanese, you can find more information about them at Blue in Green.

: Wallet Interior (image courtesy of Blue in Green)

: Available colorways (image courtesy of Studio D'Artisan)

: Wallet Profile (image courtesy of Blue in Green)

: Side Profile (image courtesy of Studio D'Artisan)

: Wallet Interior (image courtesy of Blue in Green)

: Wallet Exterior (image courtesy of Blue in Green)

November 14, 2012 by Jake

Hunter + Gatherer: His Winter Essentials

It’s that time of year where we are supposed to do very little but are expected to do a lot. So in that spirit, here is a collection of well-made artisanal goods that’ll help get you through the coming storm.

As pictured, clockwise from top left: Jo’s Handmade Peppermint Bark, Hand Thrown Mugs by TrestleShop, Woodford Reserve Bourbon, Drake’s Lambswool Gloves, Handmade Magnesium Fire-starter, Best Made Co. Axe, Diemme Roccia Boots, Pendleton Camp Blanket, Hand-knit Wool Winter Socks, Boglioli Toggle Scarf, Kiehl’s Creme-de-Corps Lotion, Organic Mint Lip Balm.

November 13, 2012 by Jake

Not Your Daddy’s Boombox… (But It Could Be His Old Briefcase)

Given the choice between schlepping work documents or a portable speaker system, I think most would go for the latter. It’s better use of a briefcase anyway.

Gator Samsonite ST-6 Model

It’s worth pointing out that I’m not alone in this sentiment. In fact, a small team of audiophiles in California felt so strongly about this, that they began crafting what they call BoomCases on a daily basis. Basically, BoomCases are recovered cases and boxes that are retrofitted with custom speakers, an input cable, and a long-lasting battery. Not only is it a convenient way to carry around your tunes, but it’s also great in that it recycles otherwise neglected guitar cases, Samsonites, wooden enclosures, and plastic lunchboxes of yesteryear.

Muppet Party Bus BoomCase

BoomCase at the Skate Park

Many of the BoomCases are custom orders, so there is a constant stream of unique sight/sound combinations flowing through their studio. Their stock is always different, so anytime is a good time to take a look at their website.